Gusto [ Restaurant Profile ] Vic Stewart’s Famous for Steaks February 2007

by Jacqueline Irwin
Images by Russell Byrne

Make the trip to Walnut Creek where Executive Chef Tyler Dwyer prepares delicious entrées in a one-of-a-kind steakhouse. The atmospher is as delightful as the dishes.

For 11 years I didn’t eat beef, but for the past three I’ve been making up for lost time. It all started when my husband bought some filet mignon at Brentwood Fine Meats and barbequed them one evening for my son and himself. I don’t know what came over me, but in a moment of weakness I asked for a bite of his medium-rare steak and in that instant wondered what I had been thinking all those years. It was not only tender and juicy, it was delicious!

Since then I feel that we’ve eaten at nearly every steakhouse this side of the Mississippi. We were recently “forced” to try Vic Stewart’s Famous for Steaks located in Walnut Creek purely for research purposes. After all, how could I write about the atmosphere and service, not to mention the steaks, when I had never dined at the establishment?

We made reservations for a Saturday evening. From the moment we drove in the driveway I knew we were in for a treat. The restaurant is located at 850 South Broadway. It is a refurbished train station that was moved there from the spot Nordstrom now occupies. The beautifully restored building features hardwood floors, antique furnishings, and a cozy and inviting atmosphere. When we walked into the doors we were greeted by the sounds of a lively crowd in a horseshoe shaped bar that was embellished with a rare coffered tin ceiling. The atmosphere was softened by the melodious sounds coming from the piano.

We were led down a narrow hallway to our spot for the evening, which was situated in a historic 1901 Executive Pullman dining car. We marveled at the beautiful inlaid wood, the velvet seats, and what looked like a nickel-plated sink. It was the perfect setting for a romantic date free of distractions.

Other equally fabulous dining areas included the Grill Room, the Board Room, the Tahoe Room, the Stateroom, the Waiting Room, and the Observation Room. Each room is uniquely decorated and all are perfect for enjoying a great meal. The Tahoe room, for example, features wicker chairs with plaid oversized cushions, a large stone fireplace, and pine walls.

The waitress brought us sourdough and squaw bread as we looked over the drink menu that included at least 20 varieties of beer and more than 200 varieties of wine.

Then came the task of choosing our meal. We wanted to save room for dessert so skipped the appetizers – but had we ordered we could have chosen from a variety of choices some of which include Baked Brie Cheese in puff pastry served over fresh baby greens with a sweet strawberry mint chutney, Canadian Manila clams steamed in a white wine and butter sauce, served with toasted crostini, or even the Hot Appetizer Platter that comes with baked brie, battered onion rings, and sizzling roasted garlic.

Vic’s serve Lobster Bisque with fresh baby lobster meat pureed in a light cream sauce or the Chef’s Special Soup. Salads include the Old Fashioned Hearts of Iceberg Lettuce with bleu cheese crumbles, peppered bacon, candied walnuts, and tomato confit. The Fresh Spinach and Spiced Pecan Salad with a citrus poppy seed dressing was cold and fresh. The mixture of flavors was unbelievable.

It would seem silly to order anything other than steak at Vic Stewart’s, but the Tender Breast of Chicken stuffed with asparagus, prosciutto, roasted peppers, and mozzarella cheese, served over saffron basmati rice with a Mediterranean pinot noir butter sauce – and the Rack of Lamb in a Dijon mustard and fresh herb crust, served with rosemary jus, chive mashed potatoes, and fresh vegetables were tempting.

But we had come for steak and steak it would be. My husband ordered the Porterhouse steak brushed with a Texas marinade and grilled to perfection. I had a hard time deciding between the New York Strip seasoned with hearty western spices, the Rib Eye served with Vic’s signature barbecue sauce and caramelized Bermuda onions, or Vic’s famous Sierra Nevada Peppercorn Steak with cracked black pepper, roasted garlic crust and brandied demi-glace.

I finally settled on the Skewers of Filet Mignon and Tiger Prawns served with a teriyaki and toasted sesame seed glaze that caused involuntary murmurs of “mmmm” every once in a while. The skewers of meat were threaded with peppers and mushrooms. The scallion scalloped potatoes went beautifully with my meal and my husband enjoyed the garlic mashed potatoes with his.

The vegetable side dishes include Creamed Spinach Supreme with sautéed roasted garlic and tossed with aged Sonoma Jack cheese, as well as sautéed fresh asparagus spears, or roasted wild mushrooms with Oregon bleu cheese among others.

The desserts were all tempting, but the “Fallen” Chocolate Cake made with Rich Guittard chocolate served warm with créme anglaise and caramel sauce was to die for.

Owner John Herrington named the restaurant after his grandfather. “This is a place my grandfather would have loved,” he said. I look forward to returning to try more of the entrées offered and some of the other tempting dishes Vic Stewart’s has to offer. °